The best of Stoke Newington and Newington Green

Stoke Newington (affectionately referred to as ‘Stokey’ by its residents) and Newington Green occupy the northwest corner of Hackney. Both areas command a strong feeling of community spirit, which, along with their housing stock, make them popular places in which to make a home, especially for young families who are drawn by the area’s spacious Victorian terraces and good primary schools (oh – and the Whole Foods).

 

Both neighbourhoods have anti-establishment sentiment embedded in their history: in the 1960s, Stoke Newington became the stomping ground for political radicals and bohemians; while Newington Green’s Unitarian Church was a centre for revolutionary thinking and social reform. Both areas have a village-like feel – especially around Stoke Newington’s Church Street and Newington Green itself – in part because they are not on the tube map (they are instead serviced by the Overground network).

SEE
1. The Old Church and St Mary’s

The historic parish church is the only remaining Elizabethan church in London and rises high over Clissold Park. In Tudor times it was owned by St Paul’s Cathedral before it was sold to Lord of the Manor William Patten, whose initials can be seen inscribed above the doorway. By the 1850s, the church was no longer big enough to accommodate the growing local population, so St Mary’s Church was commissioned; a grander, Gothic-style church on the other side of the street, by Sir Gilbert Scott. It’s unusual that both churches still remain.

2. Abney Park Cemetery

The cemetery – named for local landowner Lady Mary Abney – is one of the ‘Magnificent Seven’, an unofficial designation given to 19th-century private cemeteries in London. It became the foremost burial ground for religious dissenters, and has a non-denominational chapel, designed by William Hosking, at its centre. William and Catherine Booth, founders of the Salvation Army, are buried here. The cemetery is also a private nature reserve, with more than 2,500 varieties of plants.

3. Stoke Newington Town Hall

The 1930s curved brick and Portland stone town hall on Church Street is one of the finest examples of art deco design in the area. It’s a popular wedding venue: the interiors feature mahogany furniture, walnut panelling, marble features and one of Europe’s largest working mirrored disco balls (yes, really).

4. Newington Green

It’s veritably steeped in history: on the west side is London’s oldest brick terrace (numbers 52-55), dating back to 1658. On the northern side stands the peach-toned Newington Green Unitarian Church, where early feminist philosopher Mary Wollstonecraft had her political awakening.

 

On the Green itself, you’ll find ‘A Sculpture for Mary Wollstonecraft’, a naked, silver female seemingly emerging out of warped organic matter. The piece, designed by artist Maggi Hambling and unveiled in 2020, sparked much controversy around whether or not art celebrating feminism should have done so with a naked female form. You can make up your own mind on the issue while ordering a coffee from Lizzy’s on the Green, a much-loved kiosk turning out baps and toasties. Yield (for cheese and organic wine) and Jolene (for fresh-baked bread), also on the Green, are worthy pit stops.

EAT
5. Escocesa

It’s all in the name: a tapas bar whose seafood is sourced from Scotland (‘Escocesa’ meaning Scotland in Spanish). Its owners have worked at some of the biggest-name restaurants on the Spanish culinary scene: Asador Etxebarri, Arzak, Barrafina, Moro. It’s a classic taparía: pan con tomate, tortilla, jamon iberico, patatas bravas, plus plenty of seafood, such as grilled octopus, sardines with chorizo and ceviches. All of this, combined with glasses of vermouth, the metal-topped bar and the buzzy theatrics of the chefs behind the open kitchen, and you could almost be in Madrid. On weekends you can order ahead for paella; on Sundays, they also do £1 oysters.

6. The Good Egg

A neighbourhood joint inspired by classic Jewish delis of America, with a menu made up of Tel Avivian classics mixed in with a few family recipes from the owners (the babka has been passed down three generations). It garners queues around the block for its all-day brunch, the likes of egg and cheese challah buns, spicy shakshuka, labneh with fluffy pita and za’atar fried chicken. Even in lockdown, queues formed for its takeaway Montreal bagels.

7. Rubedo

An Italian bistro and biodynamic wine bar. The dishes – all based on what’s available seasonally – are chalked up on a board: perhaps a battered salt cod, a bavette steak or homemade cavatelli or gnocchi with fresh veg. In summer, the huge windows are thrown open and people drink on the street in front of the restaurant; in winter, those same windows steam up and inside it’s cosseting and cosy by candlelight.

8. Perilla

Although it describes itself as ‘casual’, and while its dining room is a lesson in plaster-and-timber-lined restraint, Perilla’s short menu is anything but. It’s experimental but homely cuisine from notable chef Ben Parks (who spent time working at Noma): the likes of gurnard fried in beef fat with ‘chip shop curry sauce’, roast cod with ‘cuttlefish bolognese’, and roast hen with Jerusalem artichoke. The seaweed bread is not to be missed.

9. Primeur

A neighbourhood French bistro located in Barnes Motors, a former mechanics garage whose sign still hangs above their concertina doors. In summer, these fold back to reveal long, communal tables and mustard-leather chairs. The ever-changing menu might include braised lamb shoulder with ‘boulangerie’ potatoes, monkfish with rice, ink and aioli, and an unrivalled chocolate mousse. The wine list rotates through what’s available from its 100-bin cellar and features lots of natural options.

10. Jolene

Praised by London Mayor Sadiq Khan as “worth the hype,” Jolene is a contemporary bakery and restaurant on Newington Green with a devoted following. From the moment it opens, queues form as patrons eagerly anticipate a selection of sweet and savory pastries, including wild garlic and smoked ricotta croissants. By evening, Jolene shifts to a restaurant, offering refined comfort fare. Its blend of charm and quality has firmly established it as a local favorite.

Sam A Harris
Sam A Harris
Sam A Harris
11. Cadet

In the summer of 2022, Cadet—a unique spot that straddles the line between a wine bar and a restaurant—opened across the green from Jolene. Brought to life by wine importers Beattie and Roberts and charcutier George Jephson, Cadet quickly became a local favorite. With its no-reservations policy and daily changing menu, guests enjoy discovering the day’s offerings on the ever-evolving blackboard menu.

SHOP
12. Search and Rescue

Everyone needs a shop where you can rely on finding a decent, last-minute gift, and for local residents, that shop is Search and Rescue. Pick up pretty glassware and ceramics, well-sourced stationery, boutique skincare, beautiful books and tapered candles in every colour of the rainbow. It is stocking filler paradise.

13. Array

Array is on the site that once housed Hub menswear. You can expect a similar cut of brands (the owner was the former buyer for Hub’s male edit): the likes of Kestin, Folk, Portuguese Flannel and YMC, with some homewares thrown in for good measure.

14. Newington Green Fruit and Vegetables

Is this the best greengrocer in London? Possibly. Its streetside crates, stacked high with polished and vibrant fruit and veg, have even caught the attention of British Vogue. It’s the sort of place where there might be 20 types of tomato at any one time, and there’s always a queue. Lots of the produce is British-sourced, but they get tropical specialities too: if you’re after a rambutan, it is likely you will find it here.

15. Abney Hall

Abney Hall, located on Stoke Newington’s lively Church Street, is a hub for community events and local markets. It hosts the monthly Hackney Flea Market, attracting visitors with a mix of antiques, vintage items, and collectibles. The Local Makers Market at Abney Hall showcases handmade goods from local artisans. With its diverse events and central location, Abney Hall is a cherished landmark that fosters community spirit and supports local creative talent.

DO
16. Clissold Park

A compact park that packs a punch: it’s home to an aviary, menagerie, ponds, tennis courts (check out the contemporary, sustainably designed pavilion), a skate park, children’s playground and paddling pool. Its eastern side is home to the Grade II-listed, collonaded Clissold Mansion, built in the 1790s for a local Quaker.

17. Woodberry Wetlands

A 12-hectare conservation site, formerly a working reservoir, which is now a thriving habitat for migratory birds (it was opened by David Attenborough in 2016). You can see waterfowl, grey heron, tufted duck and kingfisher, among others, from the boardwalk around the East Reservoir. The Coal House Café has a roof terrace with views.

18. West Reservoir Centre

The West Reservoir of the wetlands has been converted into an outdoor swimming spot and sports centre, which is operated by Better. Activities include (year-round) open water swimming, sailing and kayaking. The 1930s red brick Main Tower, overlooking the water, is a popular place for events.

19. Castle Climbing Centre

The Castle Climbing Centre, located next to the picturesque Woodberry Wetlands, is a unique climbing facility housed in a former Victorian water pumping station built in the 19th century. Since its opening in 1995, the Centre has become a prime spot for climbing enthusiasts, offering over 330 indoor boulders and more than 130 outdoor boulders.

The Centre also features a well-stocked climbing shop and a vegetarian café, providing a rounded day out for all its visitors!  The café serves fresh food grown on-site in the surrounding garden, with volunteer opportunities available for those interested!.

BUY
20. Collison Place II, London N16

Light-filled and dynamic, this two-bedroom house forms part of Collison Place, an award-winning gated mews that backs onto Stoke Newington’s Abney Park and Cemetery. Inside, meticulous craftsmanship and thoughtful design work to produce a calm, fluent home. In addition to its private courtyard garden, Collison Place is minutes from the green expanses of Clissold Park.

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